We left Brisbane in the early hours of the morning and drove through the thick fog to Boonah, where we stopped at Mount French and made our way to the world class crag 'Frog Buttress'.
Our first route was 'Witch's Cauldron', a 12m grade 12 climb. Usually this grade would be trivial to climb, but being unaccustomed to crack climbing, hand and feet jamming, not to mention climbing on trad gear, it was a tough start to the day.
Luckily Chris (a seasoned trad climber from California) was there to teach the finer points of this style of climbing, and lead the routes to pre-place protection (cams, nuts, hexes) for us to use. After two leads of this route (including a fun climb up through a chimney) we moved on to something more challenging.
I managed to jam my way up this, climbing higher until I reached an overhanging section, made possible to ascend by several chockstones jammed between two larger slabs.
Past this section the rock opened into a body crack. This is where things got interesting. I had been climbing with a small backpack containing a water bladder as by this point the rock was in full sun. I was already bathed in sweat, but the body crack was so small that I had to throw my backpack down to continue.
Even then, I could only barely fit into the crack. My shoulders and chest were wedged tight, I could barely move sideways, let alone gain leverage to get any higher. Running out of options and not wanting to bail on the climb, I went for it. Sucking in my chest, getting any leverage I could from my hands and feet, I rose slightly, then exhaled to jam my chest against the rock. I held! Again and I again I repeated this tactic, after a few feet the crack widened and I was able to smear my hands and feet on the rock to get some more purchase. Eventually I was free of the crack, and back again climbing. It was a short but exposed finish to the anchors, topping out over the rock I let out a yell and sat down in a pool of my own sweat to take in the view. An incredible climb!
We drove back to Boonah for an ice-coffee and lunch, before heading back to the crag in the late afternoon.
Feeling tired but still having a climb left in me, I opted to lead 'Shit Heap', a 10m grade 14. Climbing first I also placed all my own protection for the first time. I found the route difficult, the cracks either too big or more often too small for me hands. But I endured, placing cams where possible, gradually jamming higher and higher. I topped out, un-roped, and climbed down the 'stairs' behind the route to the bottom. Chris was up next to check my gear placements, and they passed the test! (I also rested on a cam for a little while when leading, quite unnerving when first putting all your weight on it).
I was done for the day, but Chris decided to climb 'Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla' a 20m grade 18-20. He cruised up the crack, showing us all how things are supposed to be done.
It was late in the day so we trekked back to the car park for a cold beer, sorted all the gear out and headed home.
An incredible Saturday, I couldn't ask for a better introduction to trad and crack climbing. Amazing rock, gorgeous views, I left tired but elated. I'll be back for more.....
More photos here
